The best route for Rock climbing in Mount Kenya to Nelion is the Normal route. It is a 5s class rock route to a maximum difficulty of 5.6. Some sections are easier. This means that the party can move together. However, some 17 plus pitches are belayed. We descend the same way. But a few of the rappels will be taking more direct lines down the cleaner rocks. Rock shoes are very appropriate. The approach boots can be left at the base point. Though still being a long climb, this route is considered to be easier than the North Face Standard Route to Batian.
The Rock Climbing in Mount Kenya season is better in November through March. Because the southeast face of the Nelion peak will be relatively snow-free and climbing conditions will be better and less risky.
Day 1: Leave Nairobi after breakfast and drive through the rich agricultural countryside to Chogoria trading center for lunch. We meet the supporting crew and drive to the edge of the bamboo forest. From here we start our trek through the dense bamboo forest for a distance of 10 km to the Meru Mt Kenya lodge also referred to as Bandas.
An early dinner prepared by our chef is served. A short briefing by our senior guide follows before retiring to bed in the lodge. (2950m)
Day 2: On finishing our breakfast we start the hike to Lake Ellis. There are scenic views of Mugi hill, The Giant Billiards Table and Ithanguni, makes it a beautiful day.
With interest, a hike to Mugi hill is recommended for acclimatization. All meals are served in the camp.
Day 3: After an early breakfast, we go well off the beaten track to follow a ridge up the mountain for about 4 hours. We then eventually join the tourist track on the normal Chogoria route at an altitude of about 4,100m. There are breathtaking views over the Gorges Valley and back over towards Ithanguni.
Lunch is served en route. We continue for a further 2 hours to the Mintos Hut at 4200m.
This is a scenic area, and a 10-minute walk to the “Temple” is well worth the effort.
Day 4: After a full English breakfast, we hike up along the foot of huge rock walls. From the top, we`ll have an excellent view of Mount Kenya. From Tooth Col, we will traverse the scree to the Austrian Hut. An optional short ascent to Point Lenana, 4,985m is possible. Enjoy a warm plate of lunch. Rest of the day spent on exploring the remaining glacier and the Ice Caves.
Dinner and stay overnight in the hut.
Day 5: (Rock Climbing )
Leave the hut at 4am to the base camp. Start the Big climb! Overnight can be done at Howel hut in case of a slow climb. Finally, you are on top of Mt Kenya!
Day 6: After taking our breakfast, descend to Shipton camp via Simba col. After a short rest, we then begin a 5-hour descent via Mackinder`s valley to Old Moses camp. Dinner and overnight stay at Old Moses camp.
Day 7: Once we take our breakfast, we start the 2 hours descend to the Sirimon Park gate. We connect our vehicle and drive back to Nairobi Stanley Hotel arriving by 4pm, have successfully achieved your dream of rock climbing in Mt Kenya
Traverse Africa and Mountaineering Service comprises a team of well-Motivated, Dedicated, Experienced, Knowledgeable, Trustworthy Guides, Chefs, Porters, Drivers and Office Staff.
Our range of services is second to none and our hospitality and sense of humor makes your trip to any E. African destination a thrilling one with memories to be relieved in a life-time.